The StyleMint: Burberry

Jan 9th 2008
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Logo: the equestrian knight on the horse, which is growing more prominent on handbag designs. The knight was developed in 1904 with the Latin word “Prorsum,” meaning forwards. The word “Burberry” is spelled in all caps in a serif font.

Signature Elements: the infamous novacheck pattern (shown at right), which has been played down because of overexposure and its association with chavs (British slang for a low-class subculture that favors fake designer goods and deviant behavior). Chavs adopted the Burberry check cap as part of the unofficial chav uniform. Now, the horse will become more of a signature element to dissociate the brand from this group.

Famous Handbag: The Burberry satchel, shown here, is one of the most well-known bags. The novacheck pattern in neutral shades of brown, tan, and dark red, along with the satchel shape classifies this bag to be a long-standing look for the bastion of conservatism. This look is dwindling in popularity because of its perceived overexposure, but it is still considered a perennial classic by the design house and is currently for sale at Saks for $550.

Now, bags sold in boutiques tend to be leather, and downplay the plaid look.
Founder: In 1856, 21-year old draper’s apprentice Thomas Burberry opened a store in Hampshire, England that focused on outdoor attire. In 1880 Burberry invented gabardine, a waterproofed, breathable yarn that was patented in 1888. In 1891 the store moved to Haymarket, London, where the headquarters still stands. At this time, Burberry was renamed Burberrys because the public began calling it “Burberrys of London.”

In 1911, Burberrys became the official clothier for Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole. In 1914, the War Office commissioned Burberry to adapt its officer’s coat, becoming the first modern day trench coat. After the war, the trench became popular with civilians. The creation of the iconic “novacheck” pattern in 1924 stands as a signature of the company, which was trademarked in 1967.

By the 90s, the company’s image had grown staid. With the Asian recession, these two factors stifled sales. The appointment of Italian designer Robert Menchetti in 1999 to revive the brand.
Current Designer: Christopher Bailey is the current Design Director.
Company Control/Exclusivity: Independent until 1955, when it was bought by Great Universal Stores (GUS). It was spun off to become the Burberry Group in 2005 (London Stock Exchange symbol: BRBY) Website: http://www.burberry.com/

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