Boston Fashion Week has given local designers a wonderful opportunity for exposure. It’s about time that Boston shows more of its cultural and artistic side! With three films slated to go into production in the city and a commitment from the mayor to promote the arts, it’s becoming better to be in Boston.

One of the talented designers that I’d talked to was Samuel Vartan. I really enjoyed learning more about this designer’s history and sensibilities, and I agree with his assessment of the Boston fashion scene. Read on!

April Gardner: How did the show go? Do you feel you have more exposure now? Is there anything you would change for the next show?
Samuel Vartan: Thanks to all who helped! The response to the clothes was great and very well received. Of course there’s always some glitches when you put on a show at a relatively short notice but really they weren’t that noticeable. I do believe that this particular show has brought me even more attention and exposure thanks to Boston Fashion Week doing a great job honestly. Would I have any changes for my next fashion event? I guess you always want to do some things differently, it just depends on the situation and the circumstances that the event was planned around that determines how things shape up for an event. But overall I was very pleased with how things turned out for last night’s event.

AG: How did you get started in fashion?
SV: There are so many events and circumstances that paved the way to how I got into fashion. Growing up mostly in Montreal, fashion design was basically the last thing on my mind. My areas of interest were in music and film/communications. Now that’s not to say that I was not interested in personal style — I was always interested in clothing as a way of self-expression, and how it impacted our cultural lifestyles and our society psychologically.

Basically it all started when I was drawing and designing stage clothes for the alternative rock band I was in at the time. I knew a lot of friends in the garment industry and I basically I took my ideas to them to see if we could make these ideas into reality. One thing lead to another and basically got them made with outstanding results. At this point I should also mention that one of my other earliest artistic skills was in sketching and drawing. When we were going to make these clothes for the band we weren’t going to sacrifice on quality; I used top notch baby lamb leather, zippers, buttons, lining, and fusable parts. The result of this venture was amazing. Then word got out that Samuel Vartan is designing clothes for musicians! Then of course the girlfriends wanted some for them with their specifications and obvious modifications and the rest as they say is history. That particular incident was a crucial point where I, for the first time, could not ignore the possibilities.

AG: What do you think of the Boston fashion scene?
SV: The Boston fashion scene is very small and still has a long way to go in terms of it being a city with its own distinct fashionable ideas and philosophies. Just because Newbury street has all these boutiques and every second business establishment is some kind of salon for hair, make-up and nails doesn’t necessarily make it fashionable. I’ve noticed when I first arrived to this beautiful town that the few handful of homegrown designers were scattered all over the place… nobody really knew who they were because simply most Bostonians didn’t care for them. The whole attitude has to change in order to help promote this city as a fashion capital where there’re shakers and movers in the industry. It doesn’t help that Boston is also one of the top 3 sports capitals in the United States. Here, sports and politics are the leading interests on Bostonians minds. I’ve always said that fashion and sports don’t usually make great bed fellows. Two different spectrums. Having said that I think Boston has a great potential to be a headstrong fashionable city, paving its way in ideas and fashion philosophies because there is great talent here. We just have to support and promote one another in the industry, and our local medias have to promote and make aware of who’s who. Boston is also a lot more conservative in many ways compared to say where I grew up in a city like Montreal and to our giant a few hours south. No, we don’t have to be like New York but we could be a fashionable city with our own strengths and talents with support of artists and garmentos (Garmentos is a term for those who work in the garment industry). This is also where Boston Fashion Week comes in as a great source for those in the fashion business and for those who are interested in knowing more about it.

AG: What is your collection about?
SV: Several aspects of my life: where I’ve lived, my interest in music, my studies of film and communications, places I’ve traveled to, and 60s film icons and their lifestyles. The 60s era always fascinated me as a child, growing up in places like Athens and Beirut before the war. My ideas are a reflection of all these things constantly roaming around my head, and they are memories that never fade away. As a child I was always keenly observant of people and how their clothes looked as they walked, talked, and acted in places like big cities, buildings, cars, and seaside resorts. Music was also powerful in my life. With music, even when you close your eyes you can envision images deep in your subconsciousness and I feel that music can even transport you to places you may never have been.

Basically, my collections are about the two states of mind I’m in during the fall/winter and spring/summer. The fall/winter look is always about the big cities that have a powerful allure and an often ominous feel — either because of their history, and/or strong art deco, gothic, or industrial architecture. Montreal, where I grew up for most of my life, definitely had a strong impact on me, as well as New York, London, Berlin, and Prague to name a few. The fall/winter look is usually 95% black with fabrics such as wool, cashmere, leather, suede, velvet, pvc or synthetic rubber-like fabrics amongst others. The shapes and silhouettes are much bolder and starker then the spring/summer lines. The fall/winter clothes have a stronger, darker feel to them and are definitely worn by strong characters who live in the city. This person is confident and head strong, successful in their career, and has a keen interest in the arts. The Samuel Vartan client is also someone who is well traveled and is aware of current world affairs. The spring/summer line is the same character described in the fall/winter except the clothes become softer in fabric and a little bolder in color. This line is always in some way a celebration of Mediterranean coastal living. Lots of diverse cottons, linen and linen blends with sheer fabrics and micro fibers. Here you’ll see hints of Greece, Italy, Spain, the French Riviera, Morocco, North Africa, all islands and island living of the Mediterranean, the Middle East and Turkey. White is the dominating color, followed by off white, beige or natural, black and gray. When it comes to primary colors, blue is often shown in several hues of bluegreen and aqua, along with the occasional creamy yellows and reds. I should point out that grays and browns often show up in both seasons one way or another. These clothes are a lot more flowing, hardly no construction and very minimalistic in design. Hem lines are exaggerated, with either micro mini lengths or long flowing A-lines. The sun, sea, wind and sand are very strong elements when describing the look and feel of this line.

AG: What is the inspiration for your design?
SV: The 60’s and some of the strong film and music icons of that era. I remember when I first saw films like Fellini’s La Dolce Vita with actors like Marcelo Mastriani and Anita Edkberg and how powerful their sense of style was portrayed in these films. The tight black suits with skinny ties and the form-fitting dresses, whether they were minis or long! I loved looking at people like Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot, Claudia Cardinale, early James Bond and the Bond girls! I liked singers like Tom Jones, early Beatles, Zombies and even early Elvis. I loved TV’s early 60’s stars like Diana Rigg of the Avengers, Julie Newmar who portrayed Catwoman, Tina Louise who played Ginger on Gilligan’s Island and just that whole era and for what it stood for in art, fashion, music and film.

Film is also an ongoing inspiration. I remember when I first saw Blade Runner – that was a film that definitely had the most impact on me. It had everything! Great visuals –whether it was the cityscape, buildings, fashions, hairstyles, music and just the tone alone of science fiction mixed with film noir. Pure geniusness. I’ve always liked the works of Ridley Scott and the composer Vangelis. There was so much style and substance in that film that I’ve already seen it 88 times and counting! Even films like Matrix, Underworld, Metropolis, Interview with a Vampire, Bram Stoker’s Dracula and all the Batman films because of Gotham city and its dark, ominous feel to it with those giant statues, gargoyles and buildings and cathedrals that soar up to the dark skies until you can’t see how high they go! Here again I’m describing films that best resemble my fall/winter looks. Sometimes it does feel like I’m making clothing for certain types of films but there’s nothing wrong with some fantasy element to your fashions as long as its wearable and doesn’t become too costumey.

AG: What is the hardest part of this business?
SV: Really focusing on your style and staying true to your voice while making wearable clothing. You have to find that bridge between what you like to make and what sells. You need to be stubborn and persistent in your ideas and most importantly, you have to be honest about whether your ideas are working or not. That’s always tough but if you are not making money or selling clothes then what is the point if there is no business? You need to find a way to get to your audience so that they may be able to find you. Don’t ever sacrifice on quality and craftsmanship. It’s always hard to find good sewers and needletrade workers but once you do you need to take care of them. Some people find selling as a hard part of the business but thank God for today’s technology you can easily start by selling on line and slowly let your product be seen via Internet. You have to research your customer base and find ways to hone in on them.

AG: Who is your favorite designer right now?
SV: Georgio Armani has always been a favorite because of his sense of style, elegance, knowledge of fabrics and craftsmanship. He has always been persistent in his styles and shapes and I can always recognize his work for that signature look his always been known for. Others are Rick Owens, Narsisco Rodriguez, Jil Sanders, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and from the 80’s Claude Montana and Thierry Mugler.

AG: Where are your designs available?

SV: I have wholesale clients accross key cities in Canada and a few in Europe. I have just started showing to stores in the U.S., starting here in Boston and soon to New York, L.A. and Miami. I have a store/studio here in the Brighton area at 10 Tremont St. Brighton, MA 02135.

Check out Samuel Vartan’s fashions at http://www.samuelvartan.com.